By Sarah E. Devlin
Day 1 Upon arrival at Kitimat Marina to board our vessel for the week, we were treated to a beautiful rainbow, a sign of good things to come! Once we boarded and got settled in to our cabins we began our journey after a brief orientation from our crew. By late morning we were navigating through Douglas and Devastation Channels, where we spotted our first humpback whale, as one surfaced repeatedly alongside the boat. Our journey continued to Fishtrap Bay, where we observed a large group of Steller Sea Lions fishing for salmon, while keeping an eye out for wolves, bears, and other wildlife before reaching our anchorage at Bishop Bay for the night.
Day 2 We began the morning with a relaxing soak in the hot springs at Bishop Bay. As we departed, we were delighted by the sight of over eight humpback whales spread throughout the bay. We returned to Fishtrap Bay and launched the zodiacs to explore the shore in search of wolves. Though we caught a brief glimpse of one wolf, we didn’t see any others, but we enjoyed watching the Steller Sea Lions, birds, and waterfalls that had sprung up after the recent rains.
Day 3 After a zodiac exploration of the estuary, we spotted our first Black Bear of the trip, fishing in a creek and scavenging along the shore. We also observed numerous birds, including Bald Eagles, Harlequin Ducks, Belted Kingfishers, and Black Turnstones. We continued on towards Ashdown to search for more whales and visit a Steller Sea Lion rookery, where we were interrupted by another group of humpbacks bubble-net feeding right beside the rookery. We followed them into Squally Channel, where we encountered a group of 20+ humpback whales. Surrounded by these majestic creatures, we turned off the engines and simply soaked in the experience.
Day 4 We set off for Riordan, catching our first glimpse of sunshine and a group of humpbacks breaching beneath a full rainbow. On our hike to the viewing platform, we spotted two Black Bears on four separate occasions, including a particularly memorable sighting of a bear strolling slowly by across the creek. Other wildlife included a Pine Marten, a cooperative Belted Kingfisher, and an American Dipper performing a little show for us. By late afternoon, we returned to the boat and headed back to Bishop Bay. After dinner, a few of us returned to the hot springs for one last soak.
Day 5 Our journey took us through Ursula Channel and Fraser Reach, with a stop at Butedale to explore the rainforest and the abandoned cannery. In the late morning, we kept watch along the shores of Princess Royal Island, hoping to spot (white) bears and other wildlife. After visiting Canoona Falls, where we saw Harbor Seals and a Bald Eagle feeding on salmon, we entered Khutze Inlet for our first zodiac bear viewing. We spotted a sow with a cub, likely a couple of years old, but they were resting by the time we arrived.
Day 6 We returned to the estuary for another bear-viewing zodiac excursion, but high river levels made conditions challenging. After finding the sow and cub again, we briefly observed them before leaving to explore the main river channel. On our way out, we watched a Black Bear eating a fish it had found in the water. Later, we continued into Mussel Inlet for another bear-viewing session and encountered six grizzly bears in the intertidal zone. We spent time with two subadult bears, then watched as they were displaced by a dominant female bear. The two siblings eventually swam across the river and continued upstream. We then visited the sow with her two cubs, who took advantage of the safe distance we provided to relax and nap.
Day 7 Sunshine finally graced us as we set out for a bear-viewing session. We spotted five bears before heading to a gathering spot where multiple bears were interacting—two siblings, the sow with her cubs, and a single female. We spent over an hour with the sow and her cubs, eventually watching them nap by the water. After visiting another female further upstream, we made our way south toward Bella Bella. Along the way, we had a close encounter with a sea otter and took the zodiacs out to explore Oliver Cove. There, we found several sea otters swimming in the golden hour light near the Roar Islets.
Day 8 After packing up, we made our way to the community dock in Bella Bella. It was time to say our goodbyes, marking the end of a truly unforgettable adventure.
